UK Draught-Proofing Guide
The best draught excluder depends on where the air is getting through. A brush seal suits many door-bottom gaps, rubber profiles work well around opening frames, foam is an easy low-cost option for small irregular gaps, and a worn uPVC gasket is usually better replaced like-for-like rather than covered with extra tape.
Quick answer: for a front-door bottom gap, our best store-bought starting point is the Stormguard Heavy Duty Brush Seal. For 3–5 mm gaps around an opening door or window, use a P-profile EPDM seal. For smaller gaps around 1–3 mm, an E-profile rubber seal is usually the better fit. If your uPVC frame already has a push-in gasket, replace the gasket rather than layering adhesive foam over it.
Best draught excluders UK: quick picks
| Use case | Our pick | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Best store-bought door-bottom option | Stormguard Heavy Duty Brush Seal 0.91m | Hinged, folding or sliding doors with gaps up to 25 mm |
| Best for 3–5 mm frame gaps | Stormguard EPDM P Profile 15m | Exterior inward-opening doors and similar frame gaps |
| Best for small frame gaps | Wickes E Profile Rubber Draught Seal 10m | Doors and hinged windows with roughly 1–3 mm gaps |
| Best simple foam option | Wickes Soft Foam Draught Seal 10m | Easy DIY sealing around doors, windows and loft hatches |
| Best for worn uPVC gasket | Stormguard 6m PVCu Replacement Window or Door Seal | Replacing an existing push-in seal in a uPVC groove |
| Best no-cost temporary fix | An old towel | A door-bottom gap when appearance and convenience are secondary |
Product specifications and retail availability were checked in September 2026. Prices and stock can change. Measure your gap before buying.
How we chose these draught excluders
We have not physically laboratory-tested these products. Our shortlist compares current UK retailer specifications, gap-size suitability, installation method and independent testing where it is available.
Which? compared several door-bottom draught-excluder types in a controlled breeze test. A towel blocked the draught most effectively in that specific test, while a brush door excluder was its preferred store-bought option. Rubber seals also performed strongly when they covered the gap correctly, but were less forgiving on uneven gaps.
For frame seals, we prioritised products that state a defined gap range rather than making generic claims. That is important because an oversized seal can stop a window or door closing properly, while an undersized seal will not compress enough to stop the draught.
Before buying anything, read How to Draught-Proof Doors and Windows UK. It explains where sealing is appropriate and which ventilation openings should be left alone.
1. Stormguard Heavy Duty Brush Seal 0.91m — best store-bought door-bottom option
Best for: the gap under a hinged, folding or sliding door.
Screwfix specifies this aluminium-backed polypropylene brush seal for gaps of up to 25 mm. That makes it a practical choice when the bottom of a door has a noticeable or slightly uneven gap.
- Up to 25 mm stated gap coverage.
- Screw-in fixing, so it stays attached when the door opens.
- Brushes tolerate uneven floors better than a rigid rubber blade.
- Can be cut to fit a typical UK door width.
Trade-off: installation is more involved than sticking on foam, and you need to measure carefully before drilling.
AurumPick verdict: the most sensible first choice for a persistent front-door bottom draught when you want a fitted solution rather than a loose fabric excluder.
2. Stormguard EPDM P Profile 15m — best for 3–5 mm frame gaps
Best for: medium gaps around an exterior inward-opening door or similar closing surface.
Toolstation specifies this self-adhesive EPDM P-profile for gaps from 3 mm to 5 mm. EPDM is more weather-resistant than basic soft foam and is a better choice when you want a longer-lasting frame seal.
- Designed for 3–5 mm gaps.
- Self-adhesive installation.
- Weather-resistant EPDM rubber.
- 15 m roll gives enough material for multiple frame sections.
Trade-off: P-profile is not the right answer for every gap. If the gap is much smaller, the seal can make the door difficult to close.
3. Wickes E Profile Rubber Draught Seal 10m — best for smaller frame gaps
Best for: smaller gaps around doors and hinged windows.
Wickes positions its E-profile rubber seal for small gaps, around 1–3 mm. That makes it more appropriate than a P-profile where there is only a narrow visible gap around the opening section.
- Rubber construction rather than basic open-cell foam.
- Self-adhesive backing.
- Suitable around doors and hinged windows.
- Can be cut to length.
Trade-off: accurate measuring matters. If the real gap is larger, move up to a P-profile or another correctly sized seal rather than stretching or doubling the E-profile.
4. Wickes Soft Foam Draught Seal 10m — best simple foam option
Best for: straightforward DIY sealing where ease of fitting matters most.
Wickes lists this self-adhesive foam for small gaps around doors and windows and also notes loft-hatch use. Foam compresses easily and is forgiving on imperfect surfaces, so it is useful when you want a quick, inexpensive fix.
- Easy self-adhesive fitting.
- Can be cut with scissors.
- Suitable for several small-gap applications.
- Low skill requirement.
Trade-off: foam is usually less durable than a correctly sized EPDM or rubber profile, especially where it is repeatedly compressed or exposed to weather.
5. Stormguard 6m PVCu Replacement Window or Door Seal — best for worn uPVC gaskets
Best for: a uPVC window or door that already uses a removable push-in gasket.
This is different from an adhesive draught strip. Wickes describes the Stormguard replacement seal as a rubber gasket that pushes into the existing groove in a uPVC frame to replace a damaged or compressed seal.
- No adhesive layer to build up on the frame.
- Pushes into the existing gasket groove.
- Can be cut with scissors.
- Designed specifically for uPVC window and door sealing.
Check compatibility before buying. uPVC gasket profiles vary. Remove a short sample of the old gasket and compare the profile and groove fit before replacing the full perimeter.
6. An old towel — best no-cost temporary door-bottom fix
This is not a product recommendation, but it belongs in an honest roundup. In Which?’s 2025 comparison, a towel placed across a 2 cm test gap stopped the simulated breeze better than the commercial options in that particular setup.
It is useful as a temporary test: if placing a towel at the bottom of the door makes the room noticeably more comfortable, you have confirmed that the door-bottom gap is worth addressing permanently.
Trade-off: you have to reposition it whenever the door opens, it can look untidy, and it should not become a trip hazard.
How to choose the right draught excluder
| Where is the draught? | Usually start with | What to check first |
|---|---|---|
| Under a door | Brush seal | Maximum gap height and floor unevenness |
| Small opening-frame gap | E-profile rubber | Whether the gap is around 1–3 mm |
| Medium opening-frame gap | P-profile EPDM | Whether the gap is around 3–5 mm |
| Small irregular gap / quick fix | Soft foam | Surface cleanliness and how often the seal is compressed |
| Existing uPVC gasket has failed | Replacement gasket | Groove and gasket profile compatibility |
Do not buy based only on the word “draught excluder”. Measure the actual gap and identify whether the seal needs to compress, sweep across a floor or push into an existing groove.
Where you should not add a draught seal
Draught-proofing should stop unwanted air leakage, not remove ventilation your home needs. Do not block trickle vents, air bricks, extractor routes or other designed ventilation openings. Be especially careful in rooms with open-flued combustion appliances.
For the wider room-comfort approach, see Home Comfort UK and How to Stop Heat Loss in a Room UK.
What can draught-proofing really save?
Energy Saving Trust’s May 2026 guidance estimates that draught-proofing around windows, floors and doors could save around £55 a year in Great Britain and around £80 a year in Northern Ireland. Those are whole-home estimates, not a promise that one strip of foam or one door brush will save that amount.
The main immediate benefit is often comfort: reducing a cold stream of air can make a room feel less chilly even before you change the thermostat.
Avoid exaggerated product-level savings claims. The result depends on the building, the size of the gaps, heating pattern and how much uncontrolled air leakage was present before the work.
Our recommendation
If the draught is under an external door, start by measuring the maximum gap. For a typical uneven door-bottom gap, a fitted brush seal such as the Stormguard Heavy Duty Brush Seal is the strongest all-round store-bought choice in this shortlist.
For gaps around the opening frame, choose the profile by measured gap size rather than brand: E-profile for a narrow gap, P-profile for a larger one, and replacement gasket for uPVC frames that already use a push-in seal.
Before buying, use our practical guide to draught-proofing doors and windows so you seal the right places without blocking necessary ventilation.
FAQs
What is the best type of draught excluder for a front door?
For a persistent gap under the door, a fitted brush seal is a strong all-round option because it stays attached and tolerates some unevenness. Measure the gap before buying.
Are rubber seals better than foam?
Rubber or EPDM profiles are generally better suited to repeated compression and longer-term use when the gap size matches the profile. Foam is easier and more forgiving for a quick DIY fix.
What is the difference between E-profile and P-profile seals?
The main practical difference is the gap they are intended to fill. E-profile is typically used for smaller gaps, while P-profile is designed for larger frame gaps. Always follow the stated gap range of the specific product.
Should I put adhesive foam over an old uPVC gasket?
Not usually. If the original push-in gasket is damaged or permanently compressed, replacing that gasket with a compatible profile is normally cleaner than layering extra adhesive material over the frame.
Do fabric draught excluders work?
They can reduce draughts, but Which?’s test found fitted brush and rubber styles more effective than the fabric models it tested. A loose fabric excluder also has to be repositioned after the door is opened.
Can I block a trickle vent if the room feels cold?
No. Trickle vents are designed ventilation. Draught-proof unwanted gaps rather than sealing ventilation routes needed for moisture control and indoor air quality.
Sources and product information
- Energy Saving Trust — Draught proofing
- Which? — Door draught excluder comparison
- Screwfix — Stormguard Heavy Duty Brush Seal specifications
- Toolstation — Stormguard EPDM P Profile specifications
- Wickes — E Profile Rubber Draught Seal specifications
- Wickes — Soft Foam Draught Seal specifications
- Wickes — Stormguard PVCu Replacement Seal specifications
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